Article · 2026-04-08
Electric gate not working? Run these checks before you call anyone
About a fifth of gate 'failures' are resolved by four owner-safe checks: confirm the control panel has power, clean and check photocell alignment, replace remote batteries, and look for obstructions on hinges or track. Work in that order. If the gate moves erratically, makes grinding noises or won't stop when it should — stop testing and call an engineer; those are safety faults, not inconveniences.
The safe sequence, in order
- Power. Are there indicator lights at the control panel? Check the dedicated breaker in your consumer unit and any isolator near the gate. A tripped RCD after heavy rain suggests water ingress — resettable once, but tell your engineer.
- Photocells. The classic "opens fine, won't close" fault. Wipe both lenses, check nothing (bin, plant pot, cobweb, growth) blocks the beam, and confirm the pair still face each other squarely — a knock from a wheelie bin is the usual culprit.
- Remotes. Does the keypad or wall switch work when the remote doesn't? Then it's remote batteries or receiver coding, not the gate. Fresh batteries first; re-coding is a five-minute engineer task.
- Obstructions and ice. Sliders: sweep the track, check the rack line. Swing pairs: look for ground heave, stones, or ice binding the drop-bolt receiver.
- Manual release. If you need the gates open now, use the release key (usually a triangular or barrel key at the motor). Release, move the gates by hand, re-engage later. If you can't find the key — that's a lesson for the handover pack you should have received.
Symptoms that mean stop — engineer territory
| Symptom | Likely meaning | Why not to persist |
|---|---|---|
| Gate moves then reverses repeatedly | Force limit tripping — could be friction, could be failing safety kit | Stop cycling it; each attempt loads the drivetrain |
| Grinding, clunking, hydraulic whine | Mechanical wear or fluid loss | Continued use turns a £200 part into a £900 one |
| Gate doesn't stop/reverse on obstruction | Safety system failure | Genuinely dangerous — take it out of use via manual release |
| Opens or closes by itself | Interference, water ingress, board fault — or a cloned remote | Needs tracing; also a security question |
| One leaf moves, one doesn't | Motor, release or board channel failure | Diagnosis, not guesswork |
Our repair page covers costs for each of these; diagnostic visits run from £120 and start with a safety check as standard.
Prevent the next one
Almost every fault above is either weather, wear or drift — all three are what an annual service exists to catch. If your gate has just come back to life after these checks, treat it as the warning it is: book the service while everything works, not after it doesn't.
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Tell us the opening width, whether power is nearby and the style you have in mind. We measure on site, confirm a fixed price in writing, and never sell door-to-door.
Prefer to talk? Call 01483 000 000.
Frequently asked questions
My gate beeps but doesn't move — what does that mean?
Persistent beeping usually signals a fault code or a battery-backup state (mains lost, running on battery). Check power first; the beep pattern is brand-specific and worth mentioning when you call.
Can I force the gate open by hand in an emergency?
Never force it against the motor — use the manual release. Forcing strips gears and can spring hydraulics. Every system has a release; find yours before you need it.