Troubleshooting · Electric gates
Electric gate won't open: causes and what to do
An electric gate that won't open is most often caused by a power supply fault, a flat backup battery, a blocked or misaligned safety photocell, or a failed motor capacitor. Work through the safe, no-tools checks below before calling an engineer — and never force an automated gate, which can injure you and damage the motor.
The likely causes, in the order to check them
When a gate stops opening, the cause is usually one of a short list. Checking them in order saves a callout for a fault you can clear yourself in two minutes:
- No power. Check the gate's fused spur or breaker has not tripped. A power cut or a tripped RCD is the single most common cause.
- Flat backup battery. Many gates run through a battery that charges off the mains; if the charger or mains has failed, the gate runs until the battery dies, then stops.
- Blocked safety photocell. The infra-red beam across the opening stops the gate if anything interrupts it — leaves, a bin, snow, a spider's web, or a cell knocked out of alignment.
- Remote or keypad fault. A flat fob battery or an unresponsive keypad looks like a dead gate when the gate is fine.
- Failed capacitor. The motor hums or clicks but will not move — a classic failed-capacitor symptom, and a common, inexpensive repair.
- Control board fault. After a power surge or storm, the board itself can fail, which needs an engineer.
What you can safely check yourself
None of these needs tools or any contact with moving parts:
- Check the breaker or fused spur that feeds the gate.
- Clear the photocells — wipe the little lenses either side of the opening and move anything near the beam.
- Try a fresh battery in the remote fob.
- Look and listen: does the motor hum (power is reaching it) or is it silent (a supply or board fault)?
If none of that frees it, stop there. For a fuller sequence, our guide to a gate that won't open walks the same checks in more detail.
When to call an engineer
Call a gate engineer if the gate has power but won't move, if the motor hums without turning, if the board shows a fault light, or if you'd need to force or dismantle anything to go further. We cover gate repairs across Surrey — all brands, safety-checked, diagnosed before any parts are quoted. If your gate is stuck open specifically, that is a security risk we treat as urgent — see gate stuck open.
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Get a precise price for a gate repair
Tell us the opening width, whether power is nearby and the style you have in mind. We measure on site, confirm a fixed price in writing, and never sell door-to-door.
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Frequently asked questions
Why won't my electric gate open after a power cut?
Many automated gates run through a backup battery that recharges from the mains. After a power cut the gate keeps working until the battery is flat, then stops. Restore power, let it charge, and check the mains spur hasn't tripped. If it still won't open, the charger or board may have failed.
My gate motor hums but doesn't move — what is it?
A hum with no movement is the classic sign of a failed start capacitor in the motor. It's a common and relatively inexpensive repair, but it needs an engineer — don't keep triggering the gate, as running a motor that can't turn can damage it further.
Is it safe to force an electric gate open?
No. Forcing an automated gate can injure you and damage the motor and gearbox. Every automated gate has a manual release key to disengage the motor safely — use that, not force. If you don't have the release key, call an engineer.
How much does it cost to fix a gate that won't open?
It depends on the cause. A photocell realignment or a fob battery is minor; a capacitor is a modest part; a failed control board or motor costs more. We diagnose first and quote before fitting anything, so you never pay for parts the gate doesn't need.